School Girls In Veils, Cairo
Excerpt from 'They Call Him Light' by Katherine Boland
You
won’t be surprised to learn that the first thing to strike me when
I entered the airport terminal was ‘The Veil’. I felt
a nebulous, dark aura of oppression descend upon me like my own
virtual niqab. Of course I’d
watched scenes of crowds of veiled Muslim women on TV but the
reality of this phenomena is
different thing altogether. This is another
world I grimly surmised. One
where a women has to hide her body as if there were something
wrong with it. Where it’s her responsibility to protect men from
experiencing lewd sexual thoughts and her fault if he looses
control when confronted with the sight of her exposed skin or
hair.
I wondered what new arrivals from the Middle East made of the parade of human flesh everywhere on display when they first stepped foot in my country. I could sense a rising indignation and I hadn’t even made my way through Customs. I inhaled and reminded myself that this wasn't my country, culture or religion and I should respect, appreciate and embrace the differences. Nonetheless it was a surreal experience to see so many women swathed in black, gliding along like floating lumps of coal, some sporting designer sunnies, Prada handbags and dripping with gold rings from their ebony gloved fingers. Charcoal eyes rimmed with kohl flashed through narrow slits in dark cloth. The occasional motherly black swan swam hurriedly by with two or three brightly attired cygnets following closely on her tail. How terrifying it must be for a small child to get separated from his niqab wearing mum in this place. Where would a little boy lost find her in the veritable black forest of mothers?
I noticed the difference in the quality of the material worn by the women which, I gathered, rightly or wrongly, indicated their economic circumstances. Most wore plain, black cotton robes without adornment. Others were dressed in the finest quality black silk, which fluttered around their bodies in, I assumed, an unintentionally but nevertheless unquestionably enticing manner. Delicate embroidery, borders of gold braid or a twinkling of black sequins decorated the fabric. Despite their almost total lack of fashion choice in the public domain (the mind boggles to think what they must wear behind closed doors to compensate for such a restriction) these elegant apparitions, these Islamic fashionistas oozed style. I couldn’t help but wonder about the detectable lingerie they were more than likely wearing beneath their dark shrouds and how immaculate their grooming. I imagined the delight their lucky husbands must take in the knowledge that these exquisitely manicured women were for their eyes-only.
Amid the field of black poppies, plump tulips in an array of colours also dotted the landscape of the terminal. Women and young girls wearing vibrant, patterned or subtlety tinted head scarves must shop for hours for the perfect hijab to co-ordinate with a skirt or top I thought. It was heartening. It seems creativity and the resourcefulness of the female of our species prevails wherever you go in the world.
Some of our first discussions were about the veil.
‘The idea behind the veil is that a woman keeps herself only for her husband’, he explained earnestly.
‘She wears it to protect herself from the rudeness or harassment of men who are naturally more predatory than women.’
Of course I immediately arced up with the usual feminist arguments against the custom and chastised him for his paternalistic view of women. But inwardly I smiled, restraining myself from telling him about the women I knew back home who could certainly be described as ‘predatory ’.
‘It is also a way in which a woman dedicates herself to Allah’, he continued. ‘I do not see why you have such a problem with it. You have nuns wearing veils in the West. It is the same thing’, he said. ‘Muslim women want to take the emphasis off their bodies and their sexuality.’
‘Yes’ he said, lightening up a little. ‘Some women like wearing the veil because they cannot be bothered washing their hair or going to the hairdresser.’
‘And
did you know that thieves, men, have been caught disguised in the
niqab robbing people in the streets?’ he exclaimed, his voice
rising to the singsong level of indignation that I would come to know
so well.
Did he expect me to wear the veil I hear you wondering. It was one of the first things I asked him.
I wondered what new arrivals from the Middle East made of the parade of human flesh everywhere on display when they first stepped foot in my country. I could sense a rising indignation and I hadn’t even made my way through Customs. I inhaled and reminded myself that this wasn't my country, culture or religion and I should respect, appreciate and embrace the differences. Nonetheless it was a surreal experience to see so many women swathed in black, gliding along like floating lumps of coal, some sporting designer sunnies, Prada handbags and dripping with gold rings from their ebony gloved fingers. Charcoal eyes rimmed with kohl flashed through narrow slits in dark cloth. The occasional motherly black swan swam hurriedly by with two or three brightly attired cygnets following closely on her tail. How terrifying it must be for a small child to get separated from his niqab wearing mum in this place. Where would a little boy lost find her in the veritable black forest of mothers?
I noticed the difference in the quality of the material worn by the women which, I gathered, rightly or wrongly, indicated their economic circumstances. Most wore plain, black cotton robes without adornment. Others were dressed in the finest quality black silk, which fluttered around their bodies in, I assumed, an unintentionally but nevertheless unquestionably enticing manner. Delicate embroidery, borders of gold braid or a twinkling of black sequins decorated the fabric. Despite their almost total lack of fashion choice in the public domain (the mind boggles to think what they must wear behind closed doors to compensate for such a restriction) these elegant apparitions, these Islamic fashionistas oozed style. I couldn’t help but wonder about the detectable lingerie they were more than likely wearing beneath their dark shrouds and how immaculate their grooming. I imagined the delight their lucky husbands must take in the knowledge that these exquisitely manicured women were for their eyes-only.
Amid the field of black poppies, plump tulips in an array of colours also dotted the landscape of the terminal. Women and young girls wearing vibrant, patterned or subtlety tinted head scarves must shop for hours for the perfect hijab to co-ordinate with a skirt or top I thought. It was heartening. It seems creativity and the resourcefulness of the female of our species prevails wherever you go in the world.
Some of our first discussions were about the veil.
‘The idea behind the veil is that a woman keeps herself only for her husband’, he explained earnestly.
‘She wears it to protect herself from the rudeness or harassment of men who are naturally more predatory than women.’
Of course I immediately arced up with the usual feminist arguments against the custom and chastised him for his paternalistic view of women. But inwardly I smiled, restraining myself from telling him about the women I knew back home who could certainly be described as ‘predatory ’.
‘It
has become a way of strengthening national pride’, he countered.
‘She wears one now but my mother did not wear a veil when she was
younger. She used to wear mini skirts and dye her hair different
colours. It is only since the death of President Nasser in 1970 and
the dissolution of his secular regime that it has become more and
more popular to wear the veil as a way of restoring Islamic
identity’.
‘It is also a way in which a woman dedicates herself to Allah’, he continued. ‘I do not see why you have such a problem with it. You have nuns wearing veils in the West. It is the same thing’, he said. ‘Muslim women want to take the emphasis off their bodies and their sexuality.’
‘As
long as they can still accessories,’ I said with a grin.
‘Yes’ he said, lightening up a little. ‘Some women like wearing the veil because they cannot be bothered washing their hair or going to the hairdresser.’
‘That
is why I do not agree with the full face veil’, he said. ‘It is a
question of security. It is necessary to see the face.’
After
spending some time in Egypt
I’ve developed a few of my own light hearted theories about the
veil which almost tempt me to don the niqab myself. Firstly it’s a
wonderful beauty aid. Middle Eastern women cover up to protect
themselves from the harsh environment. Hair and skin is
sandblasted by the wind off the desert or crisped
by the relentless sunshine. My own fragile locks turn to
straw within two days of arriving in Cairo and my skin becomes as
desiccated as ancient papyrus after a week. Secondly it solves the
problem about deciding what to wear everyday. In
our final year in high school they
gave us the option of wearing our uniforms
or civilian clothing. At
first the novelty of dressing in normal attire was liberating
but after a while most of us drifted back to our uniforms
not wanting the hassle of picking out a new outfit each morning.
Lastly, you can really let yourself go in a niqab. You don’t have
to worry about stacking on the kilos because hey, who cares, no one
is going to see your burgeoning body, apart from your husband and
family, who either love you regardless of how fat you are, or take
you for granted and don’t give a shit. What a bless-ed relief it
would be. A considerable number of mini pyramid shapes hover-crafting
around the terminal like black clad Daleks from a Middle Eastern
episode of Dr Who had obviously embraced this sensible approach to
their attire.
Did he expect me to wear the veil I hear you wondering. It was one of the first things I asked him.
‘No
I do not’ he replied emphatically. 'It is your choice of course’.
But
I suspect he would love it if I adopted the hijab. One day,
before his family took out the fatwa on me, he and I and his two
sisters were wandering through the labyrinth of the Khan El Khalili
souq in Old Islamic Cairo when the call to prayer began
bellowing out in deafening decibels from a virtual orchestra of loud
speakers in the district. It was time to pray and they needed to find
a mosque. The sisters disappeared for a moment and came back with a
bright orange cotton scarf they'd bought for me to wear so that I
could enter the sacred stone
building and watch them do their thing.
We removed our shoes and I followed the girls to the back of the
ancient and cavernous edifice standing
behind them as they bowed to pray and prostrate. Their
brother joined a small group of men at the fancy front end of the
mosque. When we came out to wait for him to surface from his
important men’s business inside I was still wearing the new
headscarf. I remember his face when he appeared from the shadows and
saw me. He looked like he would melt.
‘Oh
dear’, I thought at the time. ‘I’m in deep trouble’.
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